Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Off to Port Hardy

Well we did escape Port McNeill. It wasn't evil. We promise. There were some really nice parts and people. The school bus system, for instance. Every weekday we enjoyed watching the enthusiastic (sic) kids from neighboring Sointulla and Alert Bay unload from the bus-boat at Port McNeill for school.

According to one source, the boat was one of many built as a ferry boat for the World Exposition a few years ago in Victoria, and found a place as a bus in Pt. McNeill.

We ought to give a Nobel Prize to the person that hung a punching bag on the aft deck. Brilliant.

Off to homework.
Mo was handling a really rough crossing out of the protection of Malcombe Island and into Queen Charlotte Strait. The seas were 5-7 feet chop and logs were literally everywhere. Five hours of frazzled nerves and books falling from shelves got us into Drury Inlet and a cozy spot for the night near Carter Passage.


Drury Inlet has to be timed to run through Stuart Narrows at tidal slack. Beyond lies Actress Passage and Actaeon Inlet. The neck into Bond Lagoon was about 6 feet under the keel and only thirty feet wide, but a very snug spot to wait out a gale. We watched 007 For Your Eyes Only to celebrate being in Bond Lagoon.
Further up into Tsibass Lagoon we found an unused logging road and a sign to ham it up in front of. Nice to stretch the legs.

We've become a bit cougar-shy in the Broughtons, having heard some local stories of recent encounters with our feline friends, so hikes have been daylight affairs. We pulled into one marina - Jennis Bay - to inquire about their local hikes and met a one-eyed yellow lab on the dock. Turns out the dog, head in mouth, was being carried off by a wolf, but the owner shot well and saved his dog.
BC is still a wild place, it seems. Chance listens to these stories and takes them very seriously. You can see by the ears.
Blain's new beard is growing in well...
Good day, better day. Any day sailing counts. Even rainy ones.

Interesting to say the least.

Lately we've seen enough rainbows to make a Care Bear puke. October weather has been sunny then rainy, then windy, then hail, then sun, then rain, then wind, then sun, etc...

One very notable character we've met is Keith. We made too much chili one night in Pt McNeill and shared some with him. Solo sailing in his 24'(?) pocket sailer KELCEY with only paper charts and a marine radio, he's on his way from Shearwater (near Bella Bella) to Victoria and back. He looks to be about 22 and heats his boat with a modified oil drum he built into a stove.

Recently we spotted him in a secluded cove chopping wood on shore and pulled in to invite him to lunch together. This sweet guy brought with him a little baggy of "hippy dust" (nutritional yeast powder), a tupperware of sprouted mung beans, and two cloves of homegrown garlic. I say this, not to make fun. With all respect, it was probably near the last of his supplies, and his contribution to lunch was truly appreciated. In fact the fresh sprouts, two weeks from fresh produce, tasted fabulous. We hope to hear of his progress and run into him again out there. He is an inspiration to anyone who thinks sailing is only for the rich and the retired. GO KEITH! Bon Voyage!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Hiking the ghost of forest past

Today we were invited along with Allan, a local Pt. McNeill resident and retired logger. He wanted to show us his trails he'd been working on for locals and dog-walkers from the harbor.
They were rough-cut out of second-growth and through an occasional clearcut, and we'd have gotten completely lost without Al as our guide. Note Chance keeping an eye on the cookie pocket.

Chance loves posing with deadly Amanita mushrooms. "First you see stuff - and then you die", they say.
Al's two Rat terriers "Rascal and Cricket", were a lot of fun to try to photograph and kept Chance in line.

Not having claws on their paws, the old loggers used an interesting approach to gaining traction on slippery log bridges. This "z"-shaped cast iron wire was stapled down to give trucks some bite.
We loved the walk - about 3 miles total was all but it felt like 5 with all the twists and turns. Thanks Al. We really enjoyed the guided tour. Blain mapped them with his Garmin - just to stay in practice... Maybe one day the town will embrace these walking trails as a facility that improves quality of life. Right now they are too afraid of the goblin of "liability" to consider even putting them on a map.

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Last night was gorgeous and calm, so I took the camera out and about.

I like the composition of this shot - and the TV in the fishing boat's window.
Oystercatcher's ready to go - if we could just figure out the hydraulic steering, she'd be ready to take us out again.

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On another hike - Marble River - we enjoyed the big trees. The really big ones were all hollow - evidently burned after hurricane-force winds blew through and created deadfall that eventually caught fire and burned. I'd bet Canadians can't get natural disaster insurance policies on their houses in this area.

Looking straight up the charred remnant of a massive cedar.
At the end of the trail a big black bear was fishing for salmon in the river. A perfect hike and highly recommended.

Trying to escape Pt McNeill's evil grasp

Skype ROCKS! These are screen grabs from Skype sessions.
We got to call Peter and Laura, and Chris and Rita. Anchorage and Wash DC, respectively. They were cool and have webcams. Sooo 2006, but we're jealous. Our contact name is blain.n.monique.anderson. Get Skype and look us up.
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Then on to the news.

We've been fixing and upgrading boat stuff for a week in Pt. McNeill. Soon after, a major storm blew in and had us stuck. The inital repairs were good: new propane sensor, voltmeter, three new batteries, oil and transmission fluid change, etc.
And then we got to the steering system.
An aged hydraulic system that's starting to be leaky. We bled the lines and added a gallon of fluid. The process is a real exercize in patting your head and rubbing your stomach, except we have to coordinate it in separate parts of the boat.

This is where the inside steering unit is. Having three of these on the boat is not all that wonderful. But we wanted the inside steering. We thought.

We felt we had it filled and all was good, but we took off on a shakedown cruise and turned back. The steering was all over the place and we weren't going to get anywhere. So we tried to bleed the system again yesterday with no luck. Today (I'm writing this at 4:30am) we'll try again. Mo has let me know she's about had it with boat repairs for a while, so it had better work.


More later