Monday, June 22, 2009

Sucia Island storm and Rosario

One little haiku.

American nerd
can't fix japanese camera.
All tossed into trash.

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After reluctantly leaving the luxury and fun of Bellingham, we entered the San Juan Islands proper at Sucia Island.

Purchased and given to Washington State Parks by a couple of wealthy yachtsmen, the island is a deeply indented thing of intricately eroded sandstone and fossiliferous formations. We enjoyed the arid climate and new plant species on the trails that crisscross the island. Our anchorage in Fox Cove was a bit tidal and open to westerlies, but a great spot for sunsets.

On the second night at anchor, a gale blew in the evening and stayed all night. The waves beyond the cove entrance built to 4-5 feet and we began to rock and roll. Prudence (our guiding fairy) told Mo to put out a little more chain and we locked up anything not tied down.

We watched in wonder as several boats tried unsuccessfully to leave the cove and head out straight into it to the south-blasted white-caps. I'm not sure what was going on in their minds, but whatever it was, I don't want any of it. Three tried, and three came right back in. One, a large Bayliner that looked familiar, motored around at high speed looking for a spot to anchor. As it wildly veered towards us and headed right at us, we realized it was our old nemesis "The Big Fart" from Inati Bay. Missing our bow by a few feet, we got a chance to curse him again. Somebody take the wheel from this guy check for a brain...

We had a rolly restless night of anchor watch checking for drag with a fitful nap here and there for the crew. The mighty CQR anchor held fast through the night in the bucking seas and we saw in the morning we had moved not an inch.

Grateful for sunup, we pulled anchor and motored to the bigger islands of the San Juans.


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It took a bit with frazzled nerves to find a place in Massacre Bay, and decided against Skull Island, but we finally succeeded and tucked behind Victim Island. What a great place to do one of those "mystery cruises", huh?

Mo had a bit of a meltdown because Blain was being mean, but we retired to separate corners, thankful for doors. A restorative visit to a 1920s mansion converted to a resort might just do the trick...

The Moran Mansion was built by Seattle ship-building millionaire Robert Moran in the 1920s as a final retirement spot. In poor health, he was given 6 months to a year to live, and decided to create an estate on Orcas Island called Rosario.

Employing shipwrights from his docks, he created a masterpiece of nautical engineering on shore, complete with DC hydroelectric from dammed lakes above, indoor pool, bowling alley, and, of course, a pipe organ. But really, what house is complete without one?

We marvelled at the ship hardware used gracefully as door hinges, light fixtures, and built in furniture. Said to be anchored 16 feet into the bedrock, Mr. Moran built a lighthouse disguised as a mansion. The inch-thick porthole glass in the bedrooms was one of the more delicate touches.

One of the final tributes to Robert Moran's legacy (he lived another 25 or so years, by the way) was his admiration of Theodore Roosevelt. Inspired by his vision, Moran donated his upper 4000 acres to Washington as a state park. Moran State Park is a wonderful place. We hiked Mr. Moran's trails, swam in his reservoir, and admired his waterfalls.

Blain spotted his first ever rough-skinned newt (Taricha granulosa) at a stream and freaked. Herpephiles take notice, Moran State park has snakes, frogs and newts. He was in heaven here holding one of the most poisonous creatures on earth for a photo. Nice.

In the resort marina, we are next to three guys on a sailboat with pink painted roses called "First Kiss". A bit different in the Northwest than Whittier.

For our Omaha family, Moran shipyards built the USS Nebraska.

I want a slide drawer labeled "The President".

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

The new stove rocks the muffins


These photos made possible by the good folks at Force 10 Marine Stoves. Our first muffins from fresh-picked salmonberries!!!


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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Bellingham and family

On Lummi Island we stopped for the night in Inati Bay. A small, but well protected nook, we dropped the anchor and wandered up the dirt roads to seek a bit of the wild. Surprisingly the salmon berries were already ripe so we gorged.


Back at the bay we noticed right away that a second boat had also anchored and seemed to be right on top of us. Sure enough, they had picked a spot right on top of our anchor to set theirs. The red-neck captain boated over to say he thought he was a bit close, but didn't offer to move. So we were stuck with a view of his ugly stern which we called the Big Fart. And we wonder why powerboaters get a bad rap.
We soft-landed in Bellingham to hang out with Blain’s cousin Krista and her family. They’ve kept us busy ever since, and I might add well fed and a bit buzzed. We were whisked to the local Boundary Bay brewpub as soon as we tied up to the dock.
Dinners were wonderful with J (yes just J), Blair and Allison doing most of the heavy lifting. Homemade pasta with salmon, veggie burger BBQs, pizza feasts, and burrito night set our diets back about three months, but we certainly enjoyed the great food and fun hospitality.

Blain got to drive with Blair and his girlfriend Allison to Seattle to see sister Lyndsey at her apartment at UW. These kids are on fire, and it was great catching up with them.

We took out Krista and J for a spin in the boat on a windy rolly day. Midway through, Krista went to the head and returned a nice olive drab, but rallied for the evening once back on land. (Note to selves: hand out ginger candy and make everyone pee at the harbor before leaving...)



Blair, Allison, and their Alaska friend Kayla came out for a really nice day of sailing. We put the larger headsail up and really noticed the faster turn of speed. We managed to distance our photographer Krista in her kayak, so we must be going faster.

As we sailed away, we came across an empty skiff floating by and called it into the Coast Guard. Krista, who smartly carries a marine radio, got a bit of a motherly fright to hear, "Coast Guard, Coast Guard, Coast Guard, this is Oystercatcher. Over."


The harbor has low rates and free electricity and parking, so we brought the car up from Shilshole to leave with Krista.
Thank you guys fro everything. It was absoulutely wonderful hanging out with you all. It's now off to the San Juan Islands. Next major stop will be Friday Harbor where Krista promises to show us her whales...